Imagine you’re lying on the beach, the sun warming your skin, and the soothing sound of waves crashing just a few feet away. Your surfboard is propped up in the sand beside you, drying off after an epic session. With the ocean breeze in your hair and the salty air filling your lungs, you reach into your bag and pull out a book—one that perfectly complements the surf-filled day you’ve just had.
Whether you’re winding down after a long day in the water or simply daydreaming about your next surf trip, there’s nothing like diving into a great book that captures the spirit of surfing. We’ve gathered a list of the top 7 best surfing books that will take you even deeper into the world of waves, boards, and the endless ocean. Ready to get inspired? Let’s dive in.
1. Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan
If you only read one surfing memoir, make it this one. Barbarian Days is a Pulitzer Prize-winning account of a lifetime spent chasing waves across the globe. William Finnegan’s storytelling captures the essence of what it means to be a surfer, from the thrill of discovering new breaks to the dangers lurking beneath the surface. It’s not just a book; it’s an adventure you won’t want to end.
2. Saltwater Buddha: A Surfer’s Quest to Find Zen on the Sea by Jaimal Yogis
For those seeking a mix of spirituality and surfing, Saltwater Buddha is a must-read. Jaimal Yogis blends the search for meaning with the pursuit of waves, creating a narrative that is as much about the inner journey as it is about the physical one. His light-hearted and introspective style will resonate with anyone who’s ever looked to the ocean for answers.
3. Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave by Peter Heller
In Kook, Peter Heller shares the relatable tale of a complete beginner falling in love with surfing. In our opinion, it is one of the best surfing books for people who are just starting out with surfing. The book is an honest and often humorous look at what it takes to go from knowing nothing about surfing to becoming obsessed with it. Whether you’re a seasoned surfer or just starting out, you’ll find yourself nodding along and maybe even laughing out loud.
4. Surf Is Where You Find It by Gerry Lopez
Gerry Lopez, also known as “Mr. Pipeline,” is a legendary figure in the surfing world. His book Surf Is Where You Find It is a collection of stories that span his incredible career, offering insights into the philosophy and spirit of surfing. Lopez’s writing is as smooth as his surfing style, making this one of the best surfing books to read.
5. West of Jesus: Surfing, Science, and the Origins of Belief by Steven Kotler
Steven Kotler’s West of Jesus is a unique blend of surfing, neuroscience, and mysticism. The book explores why surfers are drawn to the ocean and how the sport impacts their beliefs and consciousness. It’s a deep dive into the mind of a surfer, with plenty of waves and science along the way.
6. All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora by David Rensin
Miki Dora, aka “Da Cat,” was one of the most enigmatic and controversial figures in surfing. All for a Few Perfect Waves chronicles his wild life, from the shores of Malibu to his battles with the authorities. If you’re interested in the rebellious side of surfing culture, this book is a fascinating read.
7. The History of Surfing by Matt Warshaw
For the ultimate surf history lesson, Matt Warshaw’s The History of Surfing is an essential read and can not be missing from our list of the best surfing books. This comprehensive book covers everything from ancient Polynesian surf culture to modern-day competitive surfing. With detailed research and engaging stories, it’s the perfect book for those who want to understand how surfing evolved into the global phenomenon it is today.
Conclusion: Ready to Catch the Next Wave?
Did these books get you in the surfing mood? If you’re itching to ride the waves, don’t hesitate any longer—come join us at Let Us Surf! Whether you’re a seasoned pro or a total beginner, we cater to all levels. Plus, we’ve got a cozy selection of these books right here at our camp, available for you to enjoy during your stay. So, pack your bags, grab your board, and get ready for an unforgettable surf adventure with us. See you in the water!